from
WorldWeb.com Travel Guide
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Northern England1 |
The North of England is amazingly diverse.
Considering its small overall area (compared to regions of the world’s larger
countries), it is remarkable to any visitor how so many different types of landscape
exist here. From rolling lush green fields and woodlands, to inspiring fells and
peaks, and from picture perfect lakes to desolate but beautiful moors the range
is incredible.
Similarly the urban scene here is equally varied. From the quaint stereotypically
English country villages of Cheshire
to the magnificent Victorian architecture of industrial Manchester,
Liverpool and Leeds,
and from somewhat tacky but fascinating seaside resort towns like Blackpool
to historical cities such as Chester
- dating back to the Roman occupation, the variety is remarkable. In the North
it’s possible to breathe in the splendid tranquility at the summit of a lonely
mountain and to sample the electricity and awesome intensity of a world-class
football game in one day.
Sadly many visitors to the U.K. bypass or travel too quickly through the North
on their journey from London
through the Home Counties and the Midlands to Scotland.
While the north may possess some rundown and depressed urban areas, these are
far outnumbered by attractions and places that will be of universal appeal. Like
many other countries England is full of regional bias; the people of the south
have some disdain for the north (and vice versa) and sometimes unintentionally
dissuade outsiders from paying a visit there. Good travellers will judge for themself
and take the time to make acquaintance with an area and form their own opinions.
Contrary to what others may say, history, literary landmarks, fine buildings,
nature and scenery, culture, sporting events and great entertainment can all be
experienced in England’s North.
Getting There
Apart from the three London airports, the U.K.’s alternative airline gateway
is at Manchester. Manchester
Airport
is increasingly becoming an important international gateway and transfer point.
There are direct flights here from all major European centres, many cities in
the U.S.A. and Canada,
and from Asia and Australia.
The added advantage of Manchester Airport is that it is directly linked to the
rest of the North by an efficient rail service and the airport is much less congested
than the other major British airports.
To reach the North from other parts of the U.K. there are frequent train
services to all major and most of the smaller cities and towns. The expansive
network of National
Express
also keeps the North well linked by bus to the rest of the country.
Renting a car can be advantageous, particularly if a visit to the more remote
country areas is planned. For travelling in larger cities it’s best to leave private
vehicles in the suburbs and switch to public transport.
Climate
The temperatures in the North are slightly cooler on average than the south
of England. Warm sunny days are still very common though. Winter weather tends
to be wet and windy as in the rest of the U.K., and snow is always a possibility
though it is rarely on the ground for long. In areas of a higher elevation the
cold weather and amount of snow can be more extreme. In peak and mountain areas
some roads are closed for the winter. However bright sunny winter days are often
the case.
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Average Temperatures for York in degrees Celsius/Average
Rainfall for York in mm.
|
| JAN |
FEB |
MAR |
APR |
MAY |
JUN |
JUL |
AUG |
SEP |
OCT |
NOV |
DEC |
| 3.3/5.6 |
3.3/4.0 |
5.5/4.5 |
7.2/4.5 |
10.5/4.8 |
13.9/5.3 |
15.5/5.0 |
15.5/6.6 |
13.3/5.0 |
10.0/5.0 |
6.1/15.3 |
3.8/5.3 |
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River
in England |
Autumn in the north of England is particularly
beautiful; the many deciduous trees in rural and urban areas alike provide an
amazing combination of colours as their leaves slowly change. This is particularly
remarkable in the Lake District or Yorkshire Dales. Spring is also
a wonderful time to visit, the green fields of the extensive farming areas alive
with newborn lambs and the cities renewed with a plethora of festivals and events
to mark the longer days and warmer weather. Both autumn and spring offer the added
advantage of being less crowded and accommodation and tour prices are often lower.
The golden rule when travelling here is to always bring rain protection, good
waterproof shoes and sweaters for warmth, no matter what time of year a visit
is planned for. However in summer, it is equally important to bring clothes for
warm weather.
Featured Attractions
The United Kingdom has a plethora of castles, palaces and stately homes. The
latter are usually the houses that belonged to the owners of the huge country
estates that were given to favoured courtiers of the monarch in the Middle Ages.
Though many still exist in whole or part, a lot of the estates have been broken
up and sold or donated to preservation societies, in particular the National
Trust. The stately homes are expensive to maintain and as a way of keeping
the homes and their precious contents viable, they have been opened to the public.
Since the end of World War II the number of such places opened as visitor attractions
has increased dramatically and visits to stately homes now form a very significant
part of the U.K. tourism industry.
One of the finest stately homes to visit is Castle
Howard
at Malton
in North
Yorkshire, around 24 km from York. This place achieved international celebrity
when in the 1980s it was used for the filming of the TV series Brideshead Revisited.
The attractive honey-coloured Castle Howard is set on magnificently landscaped
grounds, the architecture of the actual building is simply awe-inspiring and its
interiors are also remarkable.
The Earl of Carlisle commissioned the home, and construction commenced in 1700.
The house was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and the then relatively inexperienced
Sir John Vanbrugh an army captain and playwright who was acquainted with the Earl
through London’s Kit-Cat Club. Hawksmoor had worked for Sir Christopher Wren (who
had redesigned much of London after the Great Fire including St.
Paul’s Cathedral) and his experience combined with Vanbrugh’s influence,
drive, and creative flair made a great combination.
The central cupola probably inspired by St. Peter’s in Rome
is the focal point of the Baroque home and the whole estate itself. It reaches
over 25 metres high and can be seen for miles around. The interior consists of
a great hall that is so vast that it seems almost ecclesiastical in design; this
leads into single storey wings that contain the principle rooms of the house.
Among the notable furniture, ceramics and artwork are some impressive paintings,
including Holbein’s superb portrait of Henry VIII that is one of the most well
known images of the notorious king.
Walking around the impeccable terraced grounds is as enjoyable as visiting the
house itself. The gardens and park have lakes and bridges and two very interesting
buildings. The first of these is the Mausoleum designed by Hawskmoor -
consisting of a circular chapel with a classic colonnade and capped by a flat
dome, with a family crypt below. The other building is the Temple of the Winds,
designed by Vanbrugh as a summerhouse, and admired for its Ionic porticos and
lantern dome. Two beautiful rose gardens one traditional and one modern - cap
off the very appealing grounds of this wonderful stately home.
The City of York
is one of England’s most popular tourist destinations and one of the most well
preserved ancient cities in Europe. Its medieval walls from the 13th
and 14th Centuries are still mostly intact; a highlight
of any trip here is the one-hour circuit of these walls. The walls have four gigantic
gates known as bars. The narrow streets are known as gates, the even narrower
alleys are known as snickets or snickleways. Today all over northern England many
people refer to an urban alley as a “snicket.”
York’s history goes back to Roman times when it was a garrison called Eboracum.
In turn it then was a Saxon (known as Eoforwic), Danish (Jorvik from which the
name York was derived) and Norman settlement, a fashionable
Georgian resort on a par with Bath
and then in Victorian times a booming railway centre. It is also home to the Rowntrees
Company another of Britain’s famous chocolate and confectionery manufacturers.
Like Cadbury’s in Birmingham,
the original founders were Quaker and were pioneers in providing good working
conditions and other benefits to their employees.
Within the walls of York lie many of its attractions, so a lot of things can be
easily visited on foot as they are so close together. Just as well because York
- inside the walls - is traffic free, making it a great place for visiting without
the hassle of vehicles and fumes, or having to find a parking place. If driving
to York, park the vehicle at a 'park and ride' on the outskirts and take a shuttle
bus into the centre.
The premier attraction in York is undoubtedly it magnificent cathedral - York
Minster. The Minster is the largest medieval church in Northern Europe
and is particularly noteworthy for its amazing stained glass windows. The colours
of these windows are remarkable and are amongst the best to be seen. The Tudor
Rose Window in the south transept contains wonderful blue and ruby red colours.
The North Transept Window dates back to 1250 installed shortly after construction
on the great church began. This window consists of over 100,000 pieces of grey
tinted glass called grisaille, understated perhaps but still incredibly beautiful.
In contrast the Great East Window is very colourful and the oldest intact
stained-glass window in the world. It was made in the early part of the 15th
Century and depicts the beginning and end of the world as portrayed in the biblical
books of Genesis and Revelations. The colours are awesome, and this window (about
the size of a tennis court) is definitely the part of the cathedral that remains
in everyone’s memory. Also well worthwhile is the rather arduous hike to the top
of the central tower. This offers a spectacular view of the city and the surrounding
area, but should only be undertaken by those with a reasonable level of cardio-vascular
fitness.
Another of the better-known attractions in York is The
Shambles. This medieval street was originally named for the slaughterhouses
that used to be its main feature. You can still see the butchers’ hooks in the
beams of the buildings. Although touristy it nonetheless is unique and picturesque.
The street is so narrow that it would be almost possible with outstretched arms
to touch its buildings on either side. Today’s Shambles is filled with interesting
antique shops, bookstores and galleries all housed in timbered buildings that
seem to bend at very precarious angles. The effect is most attractive and provides
a totally old world experience.
In Britain’s golden age of the railway, York prospered as the headquarters of
the long departed North Eastern Railway. This railway heritage is well reflected
in that York is the home of Britain’s National
Railway Museum. This place is well worth a visit even for somebody who
has no interest in trains. The models, memorabilia and posters are fascinating,
but it’s the steam locomotives themselves that are the high point here. By far
the most impressive thing here though is the beautifully streamlined locomotive
The Mallard (whose 1938 speed record has never been matched), this wonderful
example of engineering at its most aesthetic will entice any visitor. The museum
is housed in an old railway station, and as well as the locomotives visitors can
visit railways coaches including Queen Victoria’s royal saloon. In an annexe it’s
also possible for visitors to observe the restoration process on the museum’s
latest additions.
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Sheep |
England’s Lake District refers
to an area in the countries northwest north of Morecambe
and Lancaster
to just south of the Scottish border. The Lakes (as the Lake District is called
by British people who admire it) is famous for its beautiful scenery - craggy
mountain peaks and splendid lakes set in a lush countryside of green fields, woodlands
imbued with fine old trees the ground carpeted with fern and bracken, stone walls
and buildings, sheep and sheep dogs. On higher ground the feeling is bleaker,
but the heather-filled moorlands and lonely tarns (small mountain lakes) are equally
inspiring.
The Lake District is also known as the home of famous English romantic poet William
Wordsworth. Thousands visit the Lake District each year to see various sights
that are associated with this poetic genius. Wordsworth
House in the community of Cockermouth
is impressive. In the beautiful village of Grasmere
it is possible to see Dove
Cottage, Wordsworth’s home for many years, and the Wordsworth
Museum. While in Grasmere be sure to sample some of the excellent local
gingerbread that is sold here. At the small village of Rydal near to the very
attractive tourist centre of Ambleside,
it is also possible to visit another Wordsworth home Rydal Mount.
Obviously lakes constitute an important feature in the attraction of the Lake
District. A Lake
Windermere Cruise is certainly a great way to sample the magnificence
of this area. On a sunny day cruising the lake is a truly idyllic experience and
even when it’s raining, the misty clouds and soft muted colours of the land bordering
the lakes make a Windermere cruise an essential element of any trip here.
The Lake District has a variety of towns that are all worth visiting. The lakeside
town of Bowness-on-Windermere
is full of nice shops from the elegant to the slightly tacky, some great resort
hotels and interesting restaurants. For children Bowness is home to The
World of Beatrix Potter, a great distraction on a rainy day, and is appealing
to all those who were raised on the works of this world famous children’s author.
The nearby town of Windermere,
named for the lake itself is similar but quieter. Hawkshead
is another attractive rural town that is quintessentially Lake District and lies
between Lake Windermere and the lovely Coniston Water. Hawkshead has several
attractions of significance to Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter.
The Lake District also has a couple of frequently overlooked county towns. Both
these are great for purchasing equipment for hiking or climbing the local fells
and mountains. Kendal
the county town of Westmoreland, is constructed largely of grey stone and has
great shopping and some places of interest. These include the ruined Kendal
Castle that was once claimed to be the birthplace of Catherine Parr, the
only one of Henry VIII’s wives to outlive him. Whether or not she was born there,
it is almost certain that she spent time at the castle. Kendal is also the home
of the world famous Kendal Mint Cake a large tablet of strongly mint flavoured
confectionery that has been endorsed by renowned explorers and adventurers for
generations as a provider of energy. Kendal Mint Cake is totally unique. Many
visitors purchase this for sustenance while climbing or hiking in the area. Choose
between white and brown varieties.
Keswick is a
classic market town in what was originally the county of Cumberland, now united
with Westmoreland to form Cumbria. Keswick lies on Derwent Water arguably
one of the most attractive of all the lakes. As well as a great variety of tearooms
and bed and breakfasts, Keswick services the climbing and walking industry. All
close to Keswick are the peaks of Helvellyn, Skiddaw and England’s
highest mountain Scafell Pike. The beautiful lakes of Buttermere
and Crummock Water are magnificent, relatively unspoiled and are also usually
reached from Keswick.
Like York, Chester
is also a walled city, but Chester’s walls date back to the Roman era. Located
in the attractive, largely rural county of Cheshire, south of the seemingly continuous
urban sprawl of Liverpool, Manchester and Leeds, Chester is deservedly popular
for visitors. Founded by the Romans and known as Deva, to walk the walls here
is a remarkable experience. Once a great port, the River Dee upon which
the city is located, gradually silted up and the ships moved to the then much
smaller town of Liverpool in the 1700s. Chester has been a popular tourist attraction
for centuries the first guide to the city was published in 1781.
Chester is famous for The
Rows, several streets consisting mostly of two-tiered lines of shops and
offices connected by pedestrian walkways. Certain of the rows feature attractive
black and white timbered buildings with a definite Tudor appearance. Some guidebooks
even list them as such, and though the origins of the Rows probably date back
prior to medieval times, in fact the actual “Tudor” buildings are clever Victorian
reproductions. Nevertheless these buildings certainly have enhanced the attractiveness
of the city.
The Walls
of Chester were first constructed around the year A.D. 70. This was to
keep the Welsh (Chester is still very close to the border with Wales)
out of the Roman fortress. Shortly thereafter the walls were reconstructed out
of local sandstone. Over the years their position has been altered slightly, but
since shortly after the English civil war of the 1600s, when they were rebuilt
as a sort of promenade, they have been a major attraction in the city. A great
introduction to Chester is to take a leisurely stroll along the two-mile (3.2
km)
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Clock
Tower in York |
circumference of the walls. Among the
highlights along the path of the walls is the lovely Victorian Eastgate
Clock. It is also possible to see the remains of the Roman
Amphitheatre.
For an interesting perspective as to how life may have been in Chester during
Roman times, the Deva
Experience will be of interest, particularly to archaeology buffs. This
includes a ride in a recreated Roman galley (more fun than factual), a walk down
a reconstructed Roman street and several audiovisual presentations. There is an
interesting museum with some interesting archaeological ‘finds’ from the actual
excavations of a Roman townhouse that take place on site. Perhaps the best thing
here is the opportunity to witness this genuine ‘dig’ and to observe the clearly
defined layers of different eras in Chester’s history.
Chester
Cathedral dates from Saxon times. It is unusual in layout and the current
building has a lot of Victorian reconstruction but some parts date from around
1250. The 12th Century cloisters are largely unspoiled
and history almost seems to seep from the stonework here. Lunch at the ancient
Cathedral
Refectory is considered one of the best values in Chester and certainly
offers atmosphere.
On a totally non-historical
note, and yet perhaps Chester’s most appealing attraction is the wonderful Chester
Zoo considered by many to be Britain’s finest and one of the largest.
Chester Zoo has a lovely park like setting, with meticulously groomed gardens
consisting of over 110 acres of simultaneously blooming flowers, and unusual shrubs
and trees. Great care is given to ensure that the animals are kept in an environment
as close to their natural one as possible. Chester Zoo is a leader in conservation
and is noted for its fine collection of primates the best in Europe.
There is a monorail and a waterbus that navigates the many streams and lakes of
the zoo. These provide novel ways of seeing the animals up close. The zoo has
many hands on experiences available for visitors that are very educational. A
good selection of restaurants and eateries are here, helping making Chester Zoo
a very suitable place to spend a half or even a full day.
